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 Post subject: Safe for comics/slabs?
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 11:33:43 pm 
Especially "dude." And "balls." Those terms work in the tech industry.
Especially "dude." And "balls." Those terms work in the tech industry.
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:38:36 pm
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Location: Seattle
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I'm thinking about getting a safe for comics and slabs - the really valuable stuff. Anyone done this? I know there can be issues with humidity, etc. Would love comments/experience from folks. Can't be too big, or too small. I'm thinking maybe 2 CGC-sized boxes would be the minimum size.

Many thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 3:32:20 am 
Personal shoe-shopper for Atom!
Personal shoe-shopper for Atom!
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Yes. I have done this. I have stored my better graded books in my gun safe. Most gun safes have adjustable or removable shelves so fit will not be an issue. Humidity is a non issue because there are specific dehumidifier options for gun safes. Also, most gun safe companies make "half safes" that are designed to hold racks of hand guns. Those could be a perfect fit for a couple boxes of slabs. Check out Browning, American Security, and Liberty. Those are all top notch companies with lots of options. I know for sure that Browning makes "half safes." In addition to gun safes, which are fire proof, there are gun cabinets which are made of thin metal and are much cheaper. They are not fire proof but are more reasonably priced. I believe Stack-On makes a good gun cabinet.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 6:57:19 am 
I'm Chiclo. My strong Dongs paid off well.
I'm Chiclo.  My strong Dongs paid off well.
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The humidity issue for most fireproof safes comes from moisture trapped in the gypsum drywall that lines the interior of the safe. It is that moisture in the gypsum that gives the safe the ability to protect its contents from fire and the higher the fire rating (in minutes), the more gypsum it will have. There will probably be a sticker on the edge of the safe door with information about how many sheets of gypsum line the walls, both on the walls, roof and floor of the safe itself and probably a different arrangement in the door, the thickness of the steel involved in the construction of the safe and a measure of the fireproofing of the safe expressed in minutes of protection at 1200 - 1400 F. The sticker will also list whether the safe is UL rated. All the Browning and Liberty safes will be UL rated, I am not as familiar with the American Security. (I don't think Browning actually makes their own safes, they only put their name on safes made by other companies, like Liberty or Cannon) We sometimes get safes from a company called Rhino or Kodiak and not all of their safes are UL rated. UL rating has to do with insurance underwriters and an impartial, third-party guarantee regarding the claims of fireproofing of the safe.

Generally speaking, the biggest difference in price in the safes will be the fireproofing. You will see a significantly smaller safe sell for 2x to 3x more than a safe that is much larger and that is because of the difference in fireproofing. Only the cheapest of safes will have the hinges on the outside of the door but they are out there. Another difference will be the number of bolts that hold the door in place and how many sides of the door the bolts come from. The more expensive the safe, the greater number of bolts will extend from 2, 3 or 4 sides of the door. There are also differences in locks beyond the old mechanical vs. digital locks - better locks will be... anti-slip? Some locks will give in if you push on a bolt and all the bolts will retract into the door if you just push on the one. In theory, a burglar could drill into the safe near the edge and into a bolt and then use a piece of rebar and a hammer and drive the one bolt into the door and get the whole door open with relatively little fuss. An anti-slip (I think is what it is called?) lock will not retract the bolts if you push on the bolts. This might be a bit overkill to care about for comics, but if you want to check a safe for this, with the door open, extend the bolts and push on one. If the all go back into the door, it is a lock that will slip, if not, it is anti-slip.

There are all kinds of failsafes on digital locks. Most folks worry about the battery dying while the safe is closed but almost every battery compartment on a digital lock will be accessible from the outside of the safe. I still prefer a mechanical lock.

I get my shoe-seller friends to give me those little dessicate bags that come in shoes and I have boxes of them in my safe. I also have a couple of other de-humidifiers that work off the same chemical principals but are rechargeable, one by putting in the oven and the other by actually plugging into the wall three or four times a year for about 8 to 12 hours.

The difference between a gun safe and a gun cabinet is the fireproofing. Gun cabients do not have fireproofing. Stack-On is probably the biggest name in gun cabinets and they do make a few cheap gun safes too.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 8:12:26 am 
Especially "dude." And "balls." Those terms work in the tech industry.
Especially "dude." And "balls." Those terms work in the tech industry.
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Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:38:36 pm
Posts: 5431
Location: Seattle
Valiant fan since: Solar #1
Favorite character: Rai
Favorite title: Currently Ninjak
Really helpful info. I'm thinking the gun cabinet might be the way to go. Maybe even a regular lockable cabinet. Just something to keep people in the house from easily grabbing a book and me never knowing for months or years.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 4:03:34 pm 
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I'm glad I bought one I love it

I have a browning hells canyon, biggest size they make I think also 90 minute rating at 1680 degrees

I also use a Remington mini dehumidifier model 365.

This can be "recharged" by plugging into a wall

Also use a. Lockdown gun vault dehumidifier that plugs into the vault

You can buy all of these at any outdoor store


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